Most of us treat the change of seasons as a quick swap: heavy jumpers up to the loft, linen shirts down from the vacuum bags, and a vague hope that everything survives until next year. It rarely does. Wool gets nibbled, knitwear loses its shape, and last summer's whites emerge with yellowed collars. The good news is that looking after your off-season wardrobe takes an afternoon, a few inexpensive supplies, and a bit of discipline. Do it properly and your clothes will last years longer, fit better when you return to them, and save you a fortune in replacements.
This is the single most important rule, and the one most often skipped. Moths and other textile pests are not attracted to clean wool — they are attracted to the sweat, skin cells, food splashes and deodorant residue left behind. A jumper that smelled perfectly fine in October can be a feast by March.
Those thin plastic bags your dry cleaner returns are for transport only. Sealed plastic traps moisture, encourages mildew and can cause yellowing, particularly on natural fibres. Use them to carry clothes home, then bin them.
Cotton is your friend. Plain cotton storage bags, drawstring dust bags and cotton pillowcases all allow air to circulate while keeping dust and light off your garments. For folded items, a sturdy lidded box lined with acid-free tissue paper works beautifully — the tissue prevents creases marking permanently and protects against discolouration.
Vacuum bags are tempting when space is tight, but think twice. Compressing wool, cashmere and tailored jackets creates deep creases that can be difficult, sometimes impossible, to press out, and any residual dampness gets sealed in with the fabric. Use them for bedding and duvets by all means, but keep your clothes out of them.
Moths thrive in dark, undisturbed places, which is exactly what a storage box in a wardrobe or loft provides. Deterrence is easy if you stay consistent.
Not everything should be stored the same way. Knitwear — jumpers, cardigans, fine-gauge merino, cashmere — should always be folded. Hanging stretches the shoulders, distorts the body and leaves hanger marks that no amount of steaming will fix. Fold along the shoulders, tuck sleeves in neatly, and layer acid-free tissue between garments if you are stacking cashmere. Do not stack too high; three or four jumpers is plenty before the bottom one starts to flatten.
Tailoring is the opposite. Suits, blazers and structured coats should hang. Use wide, curved wooden hangers that support the shoulder line, do up the top button (never the bottom), and leave a little breathing space between garments so air can move. Give jackets a brush with a soft garment brush before storing to lift dust from the weave. Shirts can hang if they have been freshly pressed, but if space is tight, fold them properly with tissue in the collar.
Leather shoes deserve a mention too. Clean them, condition them, and pop in cedar shoe trees or rolled newspaper to hold their shape. Store them in cotton bags rather than boxes if the air is at all humid.
The ideal storage space is dark, dry and reasonably stable in temperature. Lofts and garages often swing between extremes, so if you must use them, keep everything in sealed-with-care cotton bags or lidded boxes and check regularly. A spare-room wardrobe, an under-bed box or the top shelf of a cupboard is usually kinder.
Finally, build in a rotation ritual. Once a season, take everything out, shake it, check for damage, and let it breathe for a few hours before packing it away again. It takes half an hour and gives you a clear view of what you actually own — which, incidentally, makes it much easier to see what you no longer need. Store your wardrobe with the same care you would give your best suit, and it will repay you every time the weather turns.
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